Thursday, October 8, 2015

Back in Nicaland

It came sooner than i would have expected, but when you make good friends somewhere, they tend to want you back.

That's why i'm finding myself here, in front of a fan, back in Nicaragua linda. A friend needed help around her household, and with the cold winds starting to blow back in gringolandia, i really couldn't say no to her offer to buy me a ticket.

The rebelangel, on the other hand, erupted with a resounding "Noooooo!!" when i offered to buy her a ticket to come along. She's settling nicely into soccer and school and friends and just wasn't ready to return to somewhere she was sooo ready to leave. Even though she spends her days basking in the glory of having some of the best Spanish among all of her bilingual classmates, she has yet to really appreciate Nicaragua for giving that to her. And for other gifts such as making her more aware of economic disparity, gratitude for a comfortable life, awareness beyond her home borders, understanding of various cultures, and all the other stuff that wiggled its way into her life without her being totally aware it was doing so. Even the fact that her new bestie back home is just off the boat from Italy speaks to the fact that she has become a global citizen, and in turn seeks out other global citizens to hang with.

It is strange though to be back so soon -- barely three months after leaving and i am again a stranger, yet not. Yes, i know where each Granada street leads, and i brace myself for the onslaught of catcalling that i know will happen the moment i walk out the door of this gorgeous compound, but still, i am neither here nor there.

The smells are again strange -- the scent of woodsmoke and tropical decay everywhere. The fumigadoras who come to spray for mosquitoes are still doing their thing and stinking up the neighborhood. The sweaty carriage horses are still leaving their droppings in the streets -- the literal detritus of tourism dropped all around the colonial parts of Granada. It is all familiar but foreign. Gorgeous but ugly around the edges. Gloriously warm but too hot -- and i am thankful for a pool just steps from this comfy office where i'm now working.

Like every time -- every day -- when this was my full-time home, Nicaragua is full of both love, and something that is not quite hate, but more like annoyance that strikes you and fills you with awe.


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